The last planned destination of my month in Africa was a week in Victoria Falls, this was about as satisfying a trip you could imagine with many an adventure with great friends. The cheapest and most efficient way home from there back to Manchester was via Johannesburg, interesting. Rather than just transfer there, I adapted the flights to stay for the full weekend and as always, pray that the fixtures aligned.
At this point I couldn’t even tell you which teams played in Johannesburg, so I excitedly turned to Google and found that Kaizer Chiefs and Orlando Pirates both hailed from the city, being the two South African teams I was most familiar with, this was music to my ears, happy days.
Next up the fixture check and Orlando were originally scheduled to play on the Friday in the African Champions League which I’d miss due to travel, but Kaizer Chiefs were lined up for a Sunday afternoon home fixture, couldn’t have landed any better.
Bonus
They also play many of their home games at Soccer City which was the home of the 2010 World Cup Final, so, inadvertently without any effort and a lot of luck I was about to tick off another World Cup Final stadium, a list I am aiming to complete. This would be my 14th of the 22 finals covered.
Prior to the trip when people were asking where I was going, Johannesburg always got a different reaction to the other locations due to its dangerous reputation. Something I’d heard a lot about before, but it didn’t even enter my mind in the fervour and excitement of fixtures actually lining up for once. One friend even mentioned how his work colleague was from Johannesburg.
“Ah that’s cool, why did he move to Manchester?”
“Both of his parents were murdered!”
“Oh”
There was no doubt about it, of all the places I’d been in the world, I’d never been warned or heard so many negative stories about the day-to-day risks as I had in Johannesburg, and that even walking out of the airport was considered a risk so I knew I fully needed my wits about me for this leg of the adventure.
It’d been an eventful trip so far, close encounters with Crocodiles, Baboons, Gorillas and angry Elephants. Bungee Jumping 111m, being tossed off boats under the white rapids of the Zambezi and zipping around East African cities carefree on the back of mopeds.
Biggest challenge yet
But it seemed a weekend in South Africa’s largest city – and the 5th most dangerous in the world – was going to be the biggest threat to my safety yet. Bring it on.
I opted for an Airbnb recommendation in the ‘safe’ area of Parkhurst. After a pleasant seamless one-hour flight I landed at the OR Tambo International Airport, named after Oliver Tambo, an ally of the great Nelson Mandela back in the early anti-apartheid days. A short Uber ride and I was rolling up to this beautiful little spot for the weekend.
The definition of safe in Johannesburg means it is a neighbourhood where every property is highly secure with electric gates and private security patrolling the area. Sad that all this is required but it gave me the ability to stroll the streets comfortably at night. I headed down to the strip of bars at the end of the road where I met up with a friend to pass the evening sampling a few incredibly cheap beers.
Once again unable to resist the lure of Carling Black Label. An advert I remember fondly from my youth but a beer that hadn’t been sold in England since 1997 when I was 11 so it was a right blast from the past to try it here in Africa.
The Apertheid Museum
Morning brought a little bit of tourism and the main thing I had stumbled upon when searching ‘Things to do in Joburg?’ The Apartheid Museum. A dedication to the most defining era in the modern history of this country, a hugely significant period in global politics and something I was eager to learn more about. Buckle in for the history section.
This part of the world was a key area in early humanity with evidence of Australopithecines here a mere 2.5 million years ago. Quite a bit later in 1488 Portuguese explorers came across the land and began to map out the coastline.
More significantly the Dutch arrived in the 17th century, initially as a useful spot along their route to the Dutch East Indies. Not wanting to intrude on the locals, they brought in thousands of slaves from Malaysia and began setting up a farming base.
Towards the end of the 19th century Britain took control of the region then known as Cape Colony. This was due to The Dutch losing control of their own nation to France during the Napoleonic Wars back home in Europe. Britain feared that France would also take this key location off the Dutch, so they stepped in to protect their own route to the Far East.
Over time, the area became anglicised in culture and language to the consternation of the Dutch, or The Boers as they had become known as their culture developed and deviated from their European ancestors.
‘The Great Trek’
The Boers eventually headed to the interior of the land, known as ‘The Great Trek ’, creating their own independent republic which was recognised both by Britain and internationally, ‘The Transvaal Republic’.
The abolition of slavery by the British further worsened relationships between them and the Boers. They were left considerably out of pocket given their heavy investment in this industry and Britain made it very cumbersome and inefficient for them to be compensated.
The Boers also battled with local tribes including the Xhosa people as they began to intrude on their land. Feuds which were sadly never going to go away.
In the late 1860’s, diamonds were discovered and mines were set up after a big deposit was found near Kimberley. At its peak South Africa provided 95% of the world’s diamonds. 25 years later Gold was also discovered in the province of Gauteng.
This instantly led to the creation of a new city in the location. The birth of Johannesburg and South Africa’s journey to becoming the world’s biggest producer of Gold.
‘The Scramble for Africa’
Understandably all this newfound economic wealth alerted the world and played its part in ‘The Scramble for Africa’ by European states in 1902. Tensions also increased more locally and was a key catalyst of the subsequent Boer Wars.
In the first war the Boers excelled in guerrilla warfare to stave off British attacks and were triumphant. When they returned 20 years later after tensions hadn’t quite been resolved, the British soldiers outnumbered the locals 5 to 1 and predictably won the war and began to rule the area. The Boers accepted their fate and The Union of South Africa was formed, complete with similar status as Canada, New Zealand and Australia within the commonwealth.
One significant defeat for British soldiers in South Africa was known as the Battle of Spion Kop in 1900. The battle became infamous for its brutality and confusion. Back in England as Liverpool appear all set to win their 20th English League Title, we jump back in time to 1906 to their second league title which was celebrated by the construction of a new stand at Anfield.
In memory of those lost in the battle of Spion Kop, the new terrace took its name and to this day, one of the most famous ends in world football remembers those lost in the Boer War.
Repression begins
By 1913, the politics of the Union was heavily Boer influenced and Afrikaans was introduced as an official language, basically an adapted version of Dutch. Their ‘Land Act’’ of 1913 lay the foundations for decades of racial division. Despite the population being 20% white, they were allocated 80% of the land and the blacks a mere 8%. In addition, the natives were denied the right to vote as they were viewed as less civilised.
These rules were forerunners for the more severe and official laws of segregation when apartheid began in 1948. A terrible system whereby the Whites realised that if the Blacks were given equality, they would soon come to rule and their tight grip on land, resource and jobs would be at risk. They believed that segregation was crucial and different races should not mix.
All non-whites were classified into racial groups; Blacks, Asians and Coloureds which is referred to as mixed race elsewhere. Some families were even torn apart if they were categorised differently. Progress for non-whites was suppressed with restricted education and opportunities, generally setting them up for manual jobs.
Thousands were forcefully removed from their homes as preferred areas became ‘white only’. Any kind of political dissent was often labelled as communism and quashed immediately including numerous imprisonments without trial. These false imprisonments tragically led to the demise of many inmates with spurious excuses given for the ‘reason for death’.
Independence
As the rest of the world was moving forward and Britain was generally decolonising, South Africa opted for independence from the UK. The nationalist government held a referendum and left the Commonwealth which was the desire of the Afrikaans ancestors of the Dutch, believing the British to be foreign rulers.
Britain and the rest of the world openly condemned the apartheid regime and as a result the nation was banned from the Olympics, FIFA footballing events, Test match cricket, The Davis Cup and many other sports as well.
In 1966 the UN declared apartheid as a crime against humanity, but this didn’t alter the situation in the country. They were able to circumvent any military sanctions by turning to Israel for all their weaponry needs.
By this point the great Nelson Mandela, along with many of his colleagues, had already been in jail for 4 years for his part in plotting against the government as a high-ranking member of the African National Congress (ANC). As time passed there were continued uprisings and atrocities but none more significant than in Soweto in 1976.
The protests began on the back of new laws stating students would be taught in Afrikaans, the language of the oppressor, further supressing their own culture and ability to progress in life. These peaceful protests were met with a huge military presence and predictably, when things went awry, their ruthlessness showed itself in the most horrific of ways.
Sickening events
The police began to fire on the unarmed students killing an estimated, but not officially reported, 600 people. These uprisings lasted for 2 days and inspired anti-apartheid protests across the country. Although the resistance was quashed in the usual brutal way by the government forces, it sparked a feeling of rebellion and resistance and further condemnation from abroad. Although apartheid continued, this was a turning point in changing the consciousness of the people.
14 years on the cracks finally showed in the apartheid regime. The fall of the USSR and communism meant the Government could no longer use that as an excuse to throw people in jail without trial. The global isolation was taking its toll, and the logistics of apartheid was becoming an unsustainable economic drain. When F.W de Klerk became President, he knew that change was needed. A huge move was to release political prisoners including Nelson Mandela after 27 years on Robben Island.
The ban on the ANC was lifted and Mandela took over from his predecessor Oliver Tambo. The white only referendum was held and 68.7% of voters decided that apartheid should be abolished. When the end finally came and the first multi-racial elections were held in 1994, the ANC won two thirds of the votes and Nelson Mandela took his place as the Rainbow Nation’s first Black president.
In global recognition of the progress, De Klerk and Mandela went on to win the Nobel Peace Prize for their work in ending apartheid.
Since that day the ANC has ruled and still controls South African politics. Though the last election in 2019 was the first time their majority dropped below 60%, highlighting the frustrations at corruption, unemployment and economic inequality.
Highly recommended
Back to my venture for the day. Despite spending 3 hours in the Apartheid Museum, I honestly felt I had to rush the last section such was the phenomenal depth and interest. I’d highly recommend a hearty breakfast and prepare for a good long old session in there if you ever visit, you won’t be disappointed.
My reason for a speedy departure was because I had a date at ‘The Wanderers’. A world-famous cricket venue that as a keen fan of the game has been part of my sporting vernacular since my youth.
With the perfect timing of the SA20 taking place in the same month as my visit and the beautiful coincidence of the Joburg Superkings playing at home, it would be rude not to drop in. Cricket in any format is always a wonderful spectacle but the T20 version of the game entertains all, so I brought my friend Lita along for her first experience of live cricket.
Joburg welcomed MI Cape Town for this evening’s encounter. It was hard not to observe after a day at the Apartheid Museum that the crowd was made up of 98% white people, however there were a few black families dotted in there which was nice to see.
Cape Town stepped up to bat first and put out a rather lacklustre total of 140. Unfortunately, this meant Joburg would likely ease to victory without the need for any fireworks. Not to worry, the crowd were in great spirits, huge groups of families and friends creating an enjoyable environment and the cans of Castle Lite delivered to the seat were a lovely touch.
Classic cricket
The Joburg innings was going along smoothly until interrupted by the feeblest of excuses for rain. You wouldn’t even put a jacket on for this in Manchester but alas the umpires took the players off. Eventually the curse of cricket put paid to the evening’s entertainment and Joburg were declared winners by the perplexing Duckworth Lewis Method.
Either way a splendid evening of live sport where a fair few had overindulged in the local tipple, fair play to them. Despite the nights defeat, MI Cape Town returned to the stadium a month or so later where they were victorious against two-time winners Sunrisers Eastern Cape to become 2025 champions.
On leaving the venue we strolled away from the crowds for an easier Uber pick up which turned up in a matter of minutes. As we headed across the road to our driver we heard a scream from a young woman. She was just yards from where we’d been stood and had had her phone snatched by a passing car.
Given my slight intoxication and lackadaisical attitude that so easily could have been me if it was 30 seconds earlier. Just a reiteration of the security issues in the city. We’d only been out of the stadium for 5 minutes!!
Soweto
One of the few places I was aware of before my visit to South Africa, that had repeatedly appeared in the Apartheid Museum was the Township of Soweto. A guided bike tour sounded like a wonderful way to explore the area, and given I was the only signatory that day, it ended up being a private tour. Less people to hear my witty interjections but more personalised I guess.
I met my guide and the first fact was a beaut, Soweto is named so as it is a Township to the South West of Johannesburg SOuth – WEst – TOwnship. So simple but would never have guessed.
The tour commenced right outside the Hector Pietersen Museum. The tragic story of the 12-year-old boy who was the first victim of the Soweto Uprisings, killed by the police on his way to the protests. His death caused global outrage with the iconic picture of his limp lifeless body being carried away from the scene with his younger sister running alongside in hysterics. This image shocked the world and only fuelled the anti-apartheid sentiment.
The location of his death was on the corner of Vilakazi street which holds the unique honour of being the home of not one but two Nobel Peace prize winners in Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. The formers house is now converted into a museum where I stopped by for a little visit.
We continued around the town at a peaceful pace with plenty of time to interact, suddenly the guide mentioned that he’ll have to show me a video on twitter. An explosion that happened just across the field from where we were. A ‘cash in transit’ vehicle was stopped on the highway and blown up leaving the drivers dead and the perpetrators able to escape with the loot.
Harsh reality
Just another casual story to drop in, this wasn’t an old historical tale he’d been regaling for years, this incident had occurred just a few days earlier and was still fresh in the mind, an incident occurring daily across the nation.
More pleasantly, we cycled past churches with beautiful song blaring out and the house of Orlando Pirates most dedicated fan as we were well and truly in their neighbourhood.
Across the road from his house was a bar showing one of the best prices for a beer I’d ever seen. 80p for 750ml of 8% Black Label, sadly no time for a tipple though. A little more meandering around and my guide dropped me off back on Vilakazi street.
The typical way to end the tour was a taste of the local delicacy, Kota, a street food that originated here in Soweto. A hollowed-out quarter loaf of bread filled with a variety of delights, meat, egg, cheese, chips and a combination of sauces. A lovely, belly filling way to round off the afternoon.
As always, the fixture Gods played their part with a few late changes. Luckily someone pointed out to me that the Kaizer Chiefs match that Sunday was inexplicably to be played in Durban, a city some 7 hours away on the bus. Imagine buying a ticket to watch Man City at home and then being told the game was being played in Southampton. Nightmare.
Unique concept
Apparently, it is not an uncommon occurrence and it is in fact due to ‘The Amakhosi’ – chiefs in the native language – having a huge supporter base across the country. As a result, there are various commercial incentives to spread their games throughout the land. An interesting scenario that I had never seen anywhere before, every country always brings something new. Maybe something a club like Juventus could benefit from.
I’m not going to lie; I seriously considered the 7-hour journey and one hour flight back but alas it wasn’t required. While with one hand the fixture Gods withdrew my chance of seeing another World Cup Final Stadium, they gave me a wonderful alternative with the other. Orlando Pirates had their ACL game moved from Friday to Sunday and there we were, right in the heart of Soweto, perfectly placed to take in a game at the local arena. Bonza.
By the most random of twists the night’s opponents were CR Belouizdad, the 10-time champions of Algeria. The very first flight of my trip was scheduled around watching them in Egypt vs Al Ahly but a late fixture change meant I didn’t get the opportunity. Someone up there was looking down on me and wasn’t going to let me leave the continent without seeing the second-best team in Algeria.
Tickets were purchased simply enough online a few days before for the bargain price of £4. Beautiful. I had passed the stadium on the tour earlier and it had got the juices flowing for the afternoon’s game. It also helped me feel a little more at ease security wise as I’d been assured that Soweto was mainly safe for tourists. It was a strong community and in many parts of Africa that means that street justice would be imparted on any perpetrator, which I must admit, I’m not against.
Jeopardy
A bucket hat was purchased with a fairly unique style of two ribbons hanging down either side, why not eh? Always happy to pick up a novel souvenir. We’d been joined earlier by Klaibson from Brazil and as smooth as you like we passed through the security checks. The couple of pre match beers had our confidence high as we chuckled at the rather sinister sign warning above the turnstiles.
‘ENTER AT YOUR OWN RISK’
The Orlando supporters are known as ‘The Ghost’ and have a huge reputation across South Africa. They create an intimidating atmosphere at the Orlando Stadium, sometimes not so affectionately referred to as ‘The Slaughterhouse’. Thankfully named so due to being one of those places the opposition know they’ve been beaten in the tunnel, rather than their reception of guest fans. However, if I’d known that nickname before my afternoon beers, I may have questioned my attendance.
The 37,000-seater Orlando Stadium is a historic landmark in Soweto. It was the intended destination during the uprisings in 1976 before the police intervened with such tragic consequences. It’s typical for stadiums to host music concerts but this one has also played host to funerals of several high-profile local figures including Winnie Mandela.
It was also the venue for Nelson Mandela’s iconic speech just days before his inauguration as the nations first democratically elected president. He addressed the people of South Africa and encouraged unity and reconciliation which set the tone for his presidency in one of the most powerful moments in South Africa’s history.
Time for a beer
On entering the stadium there was already a vibrant mood, we headed straight for the tent selling Black Label and got our supplies for the First Half. We were there in good time before kick-off and got to enjoy the beautiful songs sung by the Pirates faithful. Having noted the ethnicity in last night’s Cricket match, it couldn’t have been any more contrasting here with myself and Klaibson literally being the only white people in the stadium.
The mood and spirits were high, and it felt an enjoyable place to be despite not seeing even one security guard once inside the stadium. The Big Screen was repeatedly popping up with the message ‘Beware Pickpockets’, certainly the first time I’d ever seen this once inside an arena.
I must admit at one point coming back from the bathroom rather jolly and tipsy, I did feel the slightest attempt to go for my pocket discretely, not 100% certain, but it was enough to make us leave our valuables with people at the seats if anyone did venture off.
One woman wasn’t so lucky as Lita saw her crying hysterically in the bathroom after having two phones taken from her bag. The reaction that she even had phones with her was of complete surprise to those around her given she was a Joburg native.
More tragedy
You may notice when watching Orlando they have no Number 1. The jersey retired as a mark of respect for former Pirates and Bafana Bafana Captain Senzo Meyiwa. He was murdered back in 2014 after a robbery at his girlfriend’s house. Another indication that crime is nothing new around these parts.
‘The Sea Robbers’ as they are also known are currently ranked 17th in African Football, a sign that they are not dominant, but they’ve had their fair share of involvement at the highest-level. They became the first South African team to win the continents premier prize back in 1995 and added the African Super Cup to the trophy cabinet the following year. Only the dominant Mamelodi Sundowns have since supplemented the country’s continental success.
They went into the game nicely placed to progress out of this year’s group stage for the first time in more than 10 years. All 4 teams still had a chance, things could change quickly but a win would do the job for ‘The Buccaneers’.
Perfect start
Both teams started brightly but a defensive error gave the Pirates a great opportunity. The keeper saved desperately but the rebound was neatly tucked in from the angle by Relebohile Mofokeng and that’s how it was to stay until the interval.
At half time there was a plethora of food stalls to choose from and some lovely looking hot food, but with my Kota still filling the belly, my snack and beer were sufficient. Back in the stands, one of the coaching staff had come over to orchestrate some singing amongst the crowd, a beautiful sight to see and always great seeing a team connected to their fans.
Leading the line for Belouizdad was former Leicester striker Islam Slimani, the Algerian sides Captain was furious as he missed a great opportunity to get his side back in the game. His miss was to be punished mercilessly when right on the hour mark, Thalente Mbatha lived up to his name and absolutely walloped in as fine a strike as you’ll ever see. From 25 yards out he cracked one off the underside of the crossbar and sent the home fans crazy, what a moment!
Both sides continued to have chances, but it wasn’t until injury time that Belouizdad struck a late deflected consolation. The remaining 4 minutes petered out and it was the home fans who ended the game full of smiles. Sealing their place in the knockout stages and only 6 days later an away win in Egypt had them topping the table.
Beautiful music
Celebrations started immediately and the fans were in fine voice. The Half Time cheerleader returned to his conducting role as a variety of classic tunes were belted out, complimented by the mandatory Vuvuzela. Songs from the local tribes of Xhosa and Sotho were sung with passion, a joyous occasion to end the game and a pleasure to witness.
The same energy continued as we headed out in search of our next beer. The previous ones were having an effect, and we confidently wandered off down one of the main roads. The general vibes were thoroughly enjoyable and it felt safe enough so we stopped to watch Man United beat Arsenal on pens in the FA Cup.
Again, lots of fun was had with the other patrons of the establishment.
One of the most striking things about the day’s crowd was the presence of fans of their fiercest rivals, even in full kit?? No story of football in Soweto would be complete without mentioning this intense rivalry.
Kaizer Motaung started out his career with the Pirates in the 60’s before a successful spell in America with Atlanta Chiefs, finishing his debut season as top scorer and named rookie of the year. On returning to South Africa, he decided he fancied creating his own team, one that ultimately became the most popular in the country. Their support throughout the country means people joke that The Chiefs never really play an away game as their supporters always outnumber the home team.
Disasters
As with many stories in this part of the world, tragedy is never far away. In 1991, trouble was sparked in a pre-season friendly between the great rivals and the subsequent panic led to 42 people losing their lives as they were trampled or crushed against the anti-riot barriers. At the time, the Oppenheimer Disaster was the worst in South African History.
Just 10 years later, tragedy struck once more. 15km from the Orlando Stadium the great adversaries met again. 60,000 people had already squeezed into the stadium with up to half that again trying to force their way in. Inadequate security potentially taking bribes to allow more entrants, led to overcrowding and another horrific event. 43 people were laid out on the pitch in an attempt to revive them but sadly none of them left the stadium alive.
Back to the nights activities and we rounded it off with a final beer in an Irish pub back in Parkhurst. And that was that, all that was left to do was to stock up on Biltong at the airport before the flight home. This brought the curtain down on one of my most enjoyable adventures yet, unfortunately at the same time my new pal Ethan was robbed at knifepoint on his last day in Cape Town, another sign of the prevolent safety risks here.
High rates of crime, widespread poverty and economic inequality, corruption, unemployment, low economic growth, an ongoing energy crisis, and poorly maintained infrastructure are some of the problems challenging contemporary South Africa. As if that isn’t a big enough list of issues, Xenophobia towards immigrants continues to be a blight on society and the country faces huge issues going forward.
Hope for the Bafana Bafana
Loathed to end on a negative, let’s focus on the positive fact that as I write this, South Africa are flying high in their World Cup qualification group. They sit atop Group C and 5 points clear of nearest rival Rwanda. A couple more wins in the remaining four games should be more than enough to see the Bafana Bafana back in the World Cup, for the first time since they became Africa’s first and only host nation back in 2010. As can often be the case, hopefully the excitement of a country united over football can bring a much-needed boost
All that aside, it’s time to rate Orlando Pirates as a Footy Trip out of 100 across 10 different categories
Team Ability – 5th best league in Africa, currently holding down second place and flying in continental competition – 6/10
Atmosphere – Several pints of Carling Black Label helped but one of the most enjoyable vibes in a stadium with the singing and positive atmosphere, despite the obvious pickpocket risk, shame it was only a quarter full though – 6/10
Stadium Quality – Really good stadium, hard to fault really, not the newest but still in good condition and decent size too – 6.5/10
Beer/Food at stadium – One of the best ever really, a bit chaotic at half time but manageable, cheap high-quality beers and also a great selection of freshly cooked food and snacks – 10/10
Tourism – Apartheid Museum and Soweto Tour are the obvious highlights within the city, but venture a few hours out of town and you can see the Big Five at Pilanesberg National Park to enhance the score – 7.5/10
Accessibility – Very expensive to get to, although direct from Manchester and a handy gateway to Africa. Cheap as chips when you get there, maybe the best value for money i can ever remember in a developed world country – 6/10
People – A difficult one to judge as I personally had no issues but was party to two incidents of crime in just 2 days and countless stories of it being one of the most dangerous cities in the world – 4/10
Stadium Surroundings – Rough and ready, a very poor area but we were well accepted at one of the local takeaways where we enjoyed an evening feeling very safe and drinking with the locals – 7/10
History – One of 2 South African winners of the ACL and joint second for titles with neighbours Kaizer Chiefs, one of few clubs known outside of SA – 6/10
Ease/Cost of ticket purchase – Plenty of space in the stadium, no problem getting tickets and at about £4 a piece for a CL game, you aint gonna get too much better than that – 9/10
Total – 68/100
Overall, a class city to watch football and somewhere I would certainly recommend visiting for a Footy Trip, but I’d advise going with a local and keep your wits about you
Accomplishments
For me in terms of personal accomplishments on this trip. It’s the 66th country I’ve visited, the 28th country in which I’ve watched footy and my third in Africa.
An absolute pleasure as always to travel around the world enjoying the delights on offer, thanks again for joining me and until the next Footy Trip, take it easy