A year after the World Cup in Qatar it seemed appropriate to plan another Autumn trip outside of Europe as a brief respite from the cold, dark English nights. After much deliberation, the lure of a Cricket World Cup in India with England as reigning champions was too good an opportunity to turn down.
First stop as always, Skyscanner, direct return to Mumbai was coming out at the best part of a grand, no thank you. With a little digging the cheapest option was via Saudi Arabia. Although a great bargain, a 30 hour journey was not something I had the appetite for so a 2 night stopover made perfect sense.
Summer Excess
Saudi Arabia had been the huge story of this summers transfer window with the simply insane deals that were being signed left right and centre. 2023 started with the marquee signing of the great Cristiano Ronaldo which certainly put the Saudi Pro League on many radars. But this was no indication of the excess to come, Benzema, Neymar, Mane, Demarai Gray, not just Champions League players, but Ballon D’Or contenders were flocking to the riches of the Arab world.
In total £700m was splashed out on transfer fees alone, not to mention the extortionate wages and agents fees. The total came to just under 50% of the spending in the Premier League over summer but still surpassing any amount spent by the other major leagues.
Western Backlash
As expected this caused much consternation in Europe amongst fans and journalists alike. Accusations of sportswashing and a plethora of top level players heading out to play for millions of pounds in half empty stadiums left many people with a sour taste in their mouth. As always in these scenarios rather than judge from 5000km away, what better way to get a view on the situation than to head over and watch a game?
Flights were selected neatly either side of an Al Hilal fixture, the only risk being whether the players would be back in time after international duty. It would be typical of me to get all the way there only to see the ‘real’ Saudi Pro League.
Bargain Flights
For £25 I was off from Manchester to Vienna for the evening, poor planning meant I needed a night in a hotel before my morning flight to Riyadh with Wizzair for the refreshingly cheap £50. Nothing quite like a Wednesday evening strolling around the empty Austrian streets to get a holiday started.
Shortly before the plane landed in Riyadh I felt the first sign of the random kindness of the Saudi people. Two seats along was a man who didn’t speak English. Barring the standard ‘Alright mate’ on taking my seat, we hadn’t interacted in the 5 plus hours in the air. So as you can imagine it was to my surprise he randomly bought me a croissant. Firstly I couldn’t believe he got so close to landing before giving in to the expensive airline food, and secondly that he casually just added another meal deal to his bill and sent it in my direction. After treble checking it was indeed now my croissant and expressing my gratitude, nothing more was said and our budding relationship ended there.
Another new land
The Visa process was smooth ($45 in advance) and I was clear through customs into country number 57. A £35 Uber into the city and I rocked up one of the few hostels I was able to find in Riyadh, my abiding memories were that the driver seemed to have a death wish weaving through the heavy traffic and that it was just a bloody big city.
Let’s just say the hostel wasn’t the best I’ve ever frequented. Request one on arrival was ‘Can you cancel the reservation so we can avoid booking fees?’ Never a good start. The corridors has a whiff of urine and the rooms of a pungent smell of sweaty blokes, on a more positive note there was a communal pair of Havaianas available for anyone entering the bathroom.
I arrived mid-evening so a stroll and food was my only plan. With little around I headed for an eye-catchingly colourful glass building hoping there would be a pleasant viewpoint to observe the city. As I got to the lift a local man approached me. The basic pleasantries were exchanged,
‘Where are you from? Why are you here? What are you up to?
He then suggested a nice place he knew a fair distance from where we were and that we could hangout and get some coffee.
Be rude not to
Sounded like a fair option in a booze free country and a bonus to make the most of my short time here and get to know a local. The conversation continued and following discussion of my crappy accommodation he suggested getting a hotel was an option. Under the circumstances…my gaff is crap, place is miles away, feel bad asking him to get me back…could be a good idea. However it was his haste to make the reservation and him asking me if I’d like a Queen bed that started to ring alarm bells.
“Do you fancy a Queen bed or Twin bed?”
I made my exit and suggested ‘let’s see’. Back at the hostel I texted him to make my excuses. His continual desire to meet up suggested I had indeed made the right call. Lovely fella but I think we wanted different things. Not the beginning I expected and rather intriguing given the rhetoric surrounding the country.
Plenty of sites
The next day I hadn’t made any specific plans other than the football later that evening. A quick check on Tripadvisor listed many malls that were worth a visit but I had zero desire for that. The more traditional shopping option of Souq Al Zal, The national museum and the sand castle resembling Al Masmak Fortress were all potential ways to while away the hours in the city centre. A couple of hours drive outside of the city you can see the marvellous views at ‘The Edge of the World’.
Once out in the desert there are a whole host of options. A Bedouin experience, spending some time riding camels, trying traditional food and camping under the stars just as the ancient Arabic tribes have been doing for thousands of years. In a more modern twist, sand boarding and dune bashing are available for those with a penchant for adrenaline chasing.
Having reviewed the many options, my plan was to take the 20 minute taxi to Diriyah. A UNESCO World Heritage site since 2010, the city is hundreds of years old and much of it has recently been restored to its former glory to give the tourists a taste for the city that was the original home of the Saudi Royal Family.
One Final Option
Just before I left I remembered to check the incredibly useful couchsurfing app. As well as help for accommodation there are also events and meet ups. A quick search showed an event that afternoon. Time to change plan, a new prospect of a Horse Riding Safari in the desert and an opportunity to meet some locals and expats sounded like the perfect afternoon.
So off I strolled to the meeting point 45 minutes’ walk away and took the chance to see a bit more of the city. To be honest there weren’t too many delights amongst the dry and dusty streets, eerily quiet until the completion of the late morning prayer when the mosques emptied. As I looked for somewhere to grab a quick bite to eat I gestured to a local man in full Thoub tucking into a wrap from Al Baik restaurant, “Any good mate?”. He beckoned me over and ten seconds later I was walking away with a bun and a couple of fresh fish fingers, just what the doctor ordered. Another kind gesture from the Saudi’s.
5 minutes later in was in the back of the car sharing a journey with a Colombian, Juan, he told me he’d just returned to work in Saudi after 8 years back home. Things had changed, the country was becoming much more relaxed and over time things were starting to open up.
Back on the horse
Along with my other new found friends from Lebanon, South Africa and Pakistan we arrived for the safari. Having not been on a horse since some poor decrepit mare hauled me around the Cuban countryside for an afternoon 8 years ago, I was a little nervous. I was soon put at ease by my new best friend and we were off. A couple of hours were spent observing the Giraffes, Zebras, Wildebeest and many other animals I couldn’t even name, all while the sun shone delightfully on the horizon, a genuinely wonderful way to pass the afternoon.
We soon felt the sheer riches of the country as we caught the end of a Polo match between two local teams before heading over to a Porsche 75 year anniversary show where the feelings were festive and the food was free.
All this before rushing back to the centre for the main reason I was here. To see the mighty Al-Hilal. It is safe to say that they are the biggest club in Asia, whether measured by social media following or overall success they are up there. Formed in 1957 and an ever present in the Saudi Pro League since its inaugural season in 1976.
At the top from Day 1
Al-Hilal won the first official championship, although a slight caveat that it was cancelled just 4 games in due to the death of King Faisal. However we’ll let them off with that spurious claim as they did indeed win again the following year. Another ever present since it’s inauguration is Al-Ittihad. Seen as the leading clubs from the two biggest cities, Riyadh and Jeddah, Al-Hilal with their traditional Nadji values and supported by upper and middle class people are in stark contrast to Al-Ittihad. ‘The Peoples Club’ are supported by lower to middle class as well as many non-Saudi’s.
They have had many epic battles over the years including the decade of the 2000’s where they were almost exclusively the top two, let’s say the Barca and Real of Saudi Arabia. Overall Al-Hilal sit way out in front with 18 league titles, double that of both Al-Ittihad and fellow major rivals, Al-Nassr, the other main team in Riyadh who have become their biggest adversary in recent years.
Continental Success
As well as dominating the Saudi League, Al-Hilal went into the 2021 Asian Champions League Final tied on three titles apiece with Korean opponents Pohang Steelers. Victory ensured they were the first team to win four ACL’s and become the continent’s most successful team outright. This despite randomly forfeiting the 1987 final as they couldn’t field a team due to international call-ups.
So, back to the modern day and the mind-blowing summer of 2023, not the first time there have been superstars playing here. Brazilian World Cup winner Rivelino played for Al-Hilal in the late 70’s under the tutelage of future World Cup winning manager Mario Zagallo. However, the recent development in Saudi football was off the scale. Al-Hilal actually made the initial bold attempt to purchase Ronaldo in the 2022 off-season, this ‘obscene’ offer was rejected and laughed off by the global audience but 6 months later Al-Nassr would seal the deal.
Plans for world domination
Recently, the Saudi Kingdoms sovereign wealth fund took over four of the biggest teams, Al-Hilal, Al-Nassr, Al-Ittihad and Al-Ahli. These four now had unimaginable financial backing creating a huge gap between the haves and the have nots. Al-Hilal made their own marquee signing with Brazil’s all-time top scorer Neymar Jr. A huge step up from previous golden boot winners Odion Ighalo and Bafetimbi Gomis. £78million was all it took for the Parisian giants to let one of their many superstars go and another huge step in the mission of the Saudi government was complete.
Time for the match and to get to the stadium I jumped in an Uber where the conversation flowed. After telling the driver I wouldn’t be purchasing a flag from the street sellers, in typical Saudi style, he wound down the window, waved over one of the young lads, purchased a scarf and chucked it to me in the back. Needless to say it was a rare occasion I left a tip in an Uber and another genuine and selfless act from one of the locals.
He checked directions with the police and dropped me in the perfect spot for my entrance to the Prince Faisal Bin Fahd Stadium. Inaugurated in 1971 it is the 22,500 seater stadium that both Al-Hilal and Al-Shabab call home. Soon to undergo major renovations to double the capacity. An upgrade for the many international events Saudi Arabia plan to host in advance of their inevitable successful World Cup 2034 bid.
In addition to this stadium in a rather rare set up, Al-Hilal also occasionally play at the King Fahd International stadium for matches where they are expecting larger attendances.
Heavy favourites
Thankfully my issues with the app didn’t cause any dramas and I arrived inside the stadium with the fans of the league leaders expecting a demolition of 11th place Al-Khaleej who had travelled 500km inland from the Coast of the Persian Gulf. A home triumph was a likely outcome given the visitors had just one point and one goal to show from their 12 historical encounters…and that was before any spending.
As for team selection, all the stars had returned from the international break and were present in the line-up, well, not quite all of them, after landing awkwardly during Brazil’s World Cup Qualifier against Uruguay, news broke that Neymar had indeed ruptured his ACL. A horrific injury for any player let alone one aged 31 with a history of injuries. Unfortunate timing for me and also a major disappointment for the fans of the ‘Blue Waves’. To the extent that the attendance was only 8,505. 5,000 lower than any other game this season.
I took my seat after picking up a couple of large tasty cheese and ham croissants for a 5 Saudi Riyals each (£1) and watched as the game started in expected fashion. Al-Khaleej were captained by Fabio Martins, the not so talented love child of Mo Salah and Marcelo. He struggled to have any impact as it was the stars of the home side who set the tone. Despite the missing Brazilian Superstar, the line-up still consisted of 250 million Euros worth of talent, Bono (€21m), Ruben Neves (€55m), Serge Milinkovic-Savic (€40m), Malcom (€60m), Aleksander Mitrovic (€53m) and Kalidou Koulibaly (€23m). Incredible to think these were all playing top level football across Europe just months earlier.
No Surprises
Koulibaly was a rock at the back and his sheer physical dominance meant Bono’s talents were not required all evening, it wouldn’t have had any effect on the scoreline if his Irish namesake was stood between the sticks instead. The 4 million Euros summer spending by Al-Khaleej was clearly not enough to cause any issues. The Yellows defended staunchly throughout the game and the Fulham fans won’t be surprised to hear the only breakthrough of the game was a Mitrovic header.
Their class showed overall with Milinkovic-Savic dominating the midfield and the hosts running our comfortable winners, extending their winning streak to 5 straight games and maintaining top spot in the league much to the delight of the thousand or so ultras who stood and sang throughout. The atmosphere was pleasant and lively, no segregation and a fair number of women and girls. I can certainly see how a big game against rivals Al-Nassr or Al-Ittihad could be a really great watch. Overall, not too shabby at all for £11.
Post-match with a low battery and no internet I set off walking with the intent of checking out neighbouring King Abdullah Park. Despite the fact it was now 11pm and of course dark, the park was full of families, predominantly women and children sat around in a lovely environment having picnics and just enjoying time together. These kind of vibes in ‘dry’ countries often make me wonder what a different atmosphere it would be back in England, certainly makes you take a step back and think.
My new favourite Taxi Driver
A light show next to the lake was a lovely bonus before I jumped in a taxi home. I made a nice little bond with the Pakistani driver and suggested he take me to the airport in the morning rather than calling an Uber. When Ahmed picked me up the next day the camaraderie continued. He asked how much time I had and offered to take me for breakfast, his treat, typical of the treatment I’d had as a foreigner in Saudi Arabia, incredible generosity, rather humbling indeed. On arrival at the airport I asked the price and probably the first and last time I hear the response
“I like you, you decide”
So I hopped out and made a run for it, I jest, knowing the Uber price I handed that over plus a little more, took a selfie and that was that.
My short but eventful time in Saudi Arabia was over, a perfect example of switching off preconceptions and opening up to what a country has to offer, there will almost always be wonderful people happy to interact with you.
Summary
Team Ability – The best team in Asia, only in Feb 23 they were runners up to Real Madrid in the Club World Cup after beating mighty Flamengo in the Semi’s. All that before spending 330 million Euros, I really think people undervalue this team – 7/10
Atmosphere – The ultras put up a decent sing song but the stadium was far from full, poor away fans, no doubt much better for bigger games but for now – 5/10
Stadium Quality – A nice pleasant stadium, quite dated and ready for the upcoming renovations. The dreaded athletics track is always one to knock the score down as well – 5/10
Beer/Food at stadium – No beer obviously, but super cheap tasty croissants and pastries and a coffee to wash it all down with – 6/10
Tourism – Plenty of options of things to do and see in Riyadh. As well as all those mentioned earlier, Riyadh is home to the Saudi Cup, the most lucrative event in the world of Horse Racing – 7/10
Accessibility – Surprisingly easy and cheap to get to given the considerable distance and not overly expensive once there, especially with the amount of free food people were dishing out – 7/10
People – What more can I say, overwhelmingly friendly and welcoming, very positive vibes from those I interacted with. However, the strict views of the government will no doubt be shared by many whom maybe I didn’t interact with so that has to come into consideration….and no one drinks – 7/10
Stadium Surroundings – I usually reserve this for quality of pubs but in this case a wonderful park with great vibes and a few restaurants opposite. A place you could quite easily while away a few hours pre kick off – 8/10
History – Credit where it’s due, the undisputed biggest and most successful club in Asia. 4 time winners of the continents premier competition and recent Runners-Up of the World Club Cup – 8/10
Ease/Cost of ticket pricing – A bargain £11 for the ticket purchased through the app. Not easy to find out how to buy tickets in the first place, language and lack of clarity of what was going on made things a little complicated but once you know it is quite straightforward – 7/10
Total – 67/100
Overall an impressive score, it has to be clarified that if you like a beer, the score might as well be zero. But if you can survive without and have an open mind about what to expect then it can be a really enjoyable place to visit.
Saudi Arabian Football is not going away, they consistently qualify for the majority of World Cups and already had the best league in Asia. Yet they get way less respect than the likes of Japan and South Korea because their players rarely move abroad. They will not be slowing down, next summer they will come again for the likes of Salah and De Bruyne and many many more. Don’t be surprised if they have one of the best leagues in the world by the time they host the World Cup in 2034.
Accomplishments
For me in terms of personal accomplishments on this trip
Saudi Arabia was the 57th country I have visited (57/195)
My first club match in Asia and the 21st country in which I have watched football
An absolute pleasure as always to travel around the world enjoying the delights on offer, thanks again for joining me and until the next footy trip, take it easy