After a bonus few days in Saudi Arabia it was time for the main reason for my trip. The Cricket World Cup where England were reigning champions. The World Cup had primarily dictated the itinerary for the trip. The late release of the Indian Super League fixtures had made for a fun yet frustrating challenge of co-ordinating where I could sneak in a game.
We all know the sinking feeling when the stars don’t align but there is also that satisfying moment of realisation when they do. On this occasion, well, let’s say it was somewhere in the middle.
Full of intrigue
But for the names of the cities and a few stereotypes, I didn’t really know a huge amount about what to expect in India so I arrived excited to see what the world’s most populous country had in store for me. My Saudi Airlines flight was due to land in Kochi 1 hour and 15 minutes before the Kerala Blasters game vs NorthEast United. The only problem was the hour drive between the airport and stadium.
Departure on time was the perfect start, now I’ve flown many times before but I’ve never had a day flight where the cabin crew insist that all windows blinds are closed and we spend the flight in darkness but we live and learn. The 5 hours flew by and before I knew it I was landing in Kochi International Airport. Proudly sporting banners with the vague accolade of ‘Champions of the Earth 2018’. After a quick google it turned out it was awarded due to being the world’s first fully solar powered airport, fair play to them.
Briefly back to the cricket and England were making a real hash of their title defence, to the point they could really do with winning the days match against South Africa to make my trip remotely worthwhile. While waiting for my Uber I spotted a screen showing that England had been set a target of 400. Now for those who don’t know anything about cricket, that means we were getting absolutely annihilated.
The race is on
Oh well, back to the race against time to the Jawaharlal Nehru International Stadium. Unfortunately I seemed to have the most polite Taxi driver on the road but I was feeling good, we were on track, the only issue, luggage, I only had 2 small bags, but too big for the stadium and with no official storage I was checking around the stadiums for restaurants to leave them. However the driver reassured me there would be something at the stadium so I took a chance and he was right.
We navigated the crazy roads and arrived a few minutes before kick-off. The crowds were bustling in the dimly lit surroundings, but the unofficial cloakroom was easy to find, although it was more akin to a cowshed but I paid my 50p a bag, took my tokens and headed off towards the stadium, excited to watch footy in my 21st country. Running 10 minutes late I got a little jog on through the sea of yellow shirts and finally took my seat…..and breathe.
Another new stadium
Time to sit back and take in the surroundings. The stadium itself was inaugurated in 1996 so relatively new. A rather unique design with the jagged roof and also what I’m lead to believe are some of the most powerful floodlights around. The ground is one of several across India named after Jawaharlul Nehru, an anti-colonial nationalist who played a key role in the independence of India in 1947 and became the country’s first Prime Minister and went on to lead the country for 16 years.
One year after its construction a crowd of 100,000 witnessed India play an international against Iraq, a stadium record which stands to this day. However modern safety restrictions limit the attendance to 35,000. Indian sport is dominated by cricket and the stadium hosted several IPL and one day internationals.
But the state of Kerala is one of the few exceptions where football is the preferred sport and from the commencement of the Indian Super League in 2014 it was clear just how passionate the region was. This emotion is captured beautifully in the FIFA documentary ‘Maitanam’. Their average attendance of 47,427 was the highest outside of Europe at the time and the former England Goalkeeper and Blasters Manager David James, veteran of such home grounds as Anfield and Upton Park declares this as the best atmosphere he has ever played in. Further evidence of the fervent atmosphere was the recording of crowd noise at 128db back in 2016, the fifth highest in the world.
Easy home win?
The evening’s fixture pitted the hosts against Northeast United, another founder member of the ISL. They represent the 8 North East Regions of India but with only 2 play-off finishes in their history they are one of the lesser teams in the league. With just 1 point from the opening 3 games it seemed this season would follow similar suit. Kerala, yet to fulfil their potential with only 3 runners up finishes were hoping to build on their positive start to the season in front of another full house. The Blasters are well-known for having the most Instagram interactions of any club in Asia and a huge part of that and the noise in the stadium is down to the Manjappada…The Yellow Army.
The Manjappada are the most prominent fan group in India, formed originally as a Facebook group when the team came into existence. They are famous for the largest Tifo in Indian football, their Viking Clap and the sea of yellow on Match days, this bit I can certainly vouch for. Barely a fan in the stadium was not wearing the team colours but just 10 minutes in they were silenced, albeit very briefly, as the Spaniard Nestor followed up his lovely footwork with a calm finish into the corner to put the away side in front.
Upset on the cards?
Despite Kerala pressure that’s how things remained until half time. The fans were entertaining to watch in themselves, annoyingly I’d chosen the nightmare spot in the tier under the main fans so didn’t get to witness the liveliest section but the noise was constant throughout. I didn’t know at the time but this pretty much sums up India, the noise is constant, ALL…THE…TIME.
The fans around me didn’t speak too much English and I got a few intrigued looks, not only because I was the only white person there, but more drastically, I wasn’t wearing yellow. I did have some nice interactions though, perhaps my favourite was a man frantically trying to explain the concept of the Mexican wave before it got around to us in case I missed the opportunity to take part. There was an endearing level of innocence and naivety to the crowd which is always beautiful to see, a sign of the game progressing in a new country and forming its own football culture.
An early second half goal from Danish Farooq pulled the scores level and despite the best effort of the home fans, that’s how it stayed. The famous Viking Clap was a little underwhelming due to the result and that was that, time to see how these bags were getting on.
Let the fun begin
I returned to the aforementioned cowshed to see a crowd of around 200 people waiting to collect their bags, there didn’t seem to be any structure or queue, just one dude holding up a bag in the dark while shouting in the local language, Malalayam. Presumably requesting a token number, a few seconds after, he tossed the bag over a few heads, presumably to the man with the right number.
I accepted that it was going to take a while and just stood back and waited my turn looking on with intrigue as people started to shout their numbers at the poor guy in the middle. I found a little spot to enjoy the spectacle but others weren’t so patient, it took less than 5 minutes for a couple of people to pop over the fence and go and grab their bags. As expected, a few more followed, and then a few more, and before I knew it there was a steady flow.
“Does this mean I have to go in to try and save my bags??? Looks like it”
Let’s do this
So against all common sense and safety rules I’ve ever been taught, I climbed into the pit. One problem, I didn’t know where my bag was, another, you could barely move inside without having to wrestle past someone. The locals were far more at ease and almost taking delight in the chaos. I must admit, the stress levels certainly increased but I got into the swing of things. Occasionally you’d rise from looking under a table to come face to face with someone whose facial expression could easily be translated as ‘What the F*** are you doing here?” Followed by a rather polite apology.
The bedlam continued, one fall or trip and it could have got very dangerous. After about 10 minutes I had covered the whole area and couldn’t find my bag. As the police came banging their sticks and blowing their whistles to clear the people out I was already accepting I’d be leaving empty handed. But to my surprise, when the area was cleared I spotted my bags under the table in the corner, covered in dirt and half open but the policeman delivered it to me safe and sound and my introduction to India was complete.
One down, one to go
With that problem resolved, next up, how to get home with no internet and no direct public transport. A broken English chat with a policeman explained I could get half the distance on the last metro, and then the most fitting way to complete my first day in India. The rest of the journey was taken in a tuk-tuk, or Auto as they are known here and the next 20km was covered for a bargain £3.
What a day, what an introduction, just 3 days earlier I was sat behind my desk in Manchester having the typical day at work. Now I was sat back relaxing, riding through the streets of Kochi, wind in the thinning hair as the rain came in, heart still racing after the bag search, memories instantly flooding back from some of the best times of my life in Tanzania and Latin America. Unlit roads, street food shacks on every corner, tropical downpours, chats in broken English and questionable waste disposal. Man it felt good to be back in such a chaotic place.
The accommodation did the job nicely, £10 for a private room, no bog roll and an introduction to the bum gun, all part of the fun.
History of Kochi
The next morning I woke in the town of Fort Kochi, known as the Queen of the Arabian Sea. At the beginning of the 16th century Kochi became the first European colony in India when the Portuguese arrived here. They were welcomed by the local Maharaja to help them in their battle in the spice wars with their rival city up the coast, Calicut. Here they built a fort as they took over the area in order to trade the wonderful array of spices available. The importance of the location was highlighted when the Dutch invaded and took over the area some 160 years later. They held the fort until the British took control in 1795. Only with independence in 1947 did the town finally return to Indian rule.
I made the short walk from my hostel down to the coastline via Vasco Da Gama Square, a really disappointing little rocky area which was covered in waste and rubbish. Many families were gathered enjoying the vibes but sadly the kids’ ice cream wrappers were going straight down between the rocks to remain there for years to come. This was so sad to see, the sheer lack of education showed India has a long struggle ahead when it comes to recycling and the environment.
I wandered on to centre and again, further disappointment, there really wasn’t any reason I could find why anyone would want to visit the town, but hey ho, India were playing New Zealand in the cricket so I was looking forward to watching that in a lively environment. It took much more effort than expected to find a place to watch but eventually a nice old auto driver took me to an unorthodox bar to watch it.
First proper Indian curry
Not quite the atmosphere I imagined, loud music, dark and dingy and no one really watching the cricket. But I was happy to get my first curry washed down with a few bottles of the rather stereotypical Kingfisher. I headed back to the town centre for the second innings where I shared a few more of the local tipple and rather randomly a bottle of ‘British Empire’ with a lovely French bloke and that was that for the evening.
One of the highlights of the state of Kerala are the many beaches along the coastline but something that sets it apart are the Kerala Backwaters. A labyrinth of rivers, lakes and inlets. Nearly 1000km of waterways. I had the pleasure of taking one of the cruises. An hour drive from Fort Kochi, the backwaters were a far cry from the chaotic waste ridden city.
Peace & Tranquility
Pure tranquillity as the boat drifted along peacefully, the sound of silence only broken by the laughter of local children swimming alongside the boat and the call of the second most famous Kingfisher in India. A much needed and recommended breather, I didn’t quite get to the most famous part of the backwaters in Allepay where the floating houses are quite the attraction for tourists, even catering for those with more luxurious taste.
As well as the relaxing boat ride we had time to jump off and watch a local old lady show us her wicker weaving talents and see the skilled climbers effortlessly scaling trees to pick coconuts. At lunchtime we were treated to a splendid culinary experience as we got a taste for the traditional food of Kerala.
Culinary Delights
A wonderful sight, served on a huge banana leaf, rice in the middle with a large array of different sauces and chutneys. All mixed together as we ate with our hands meaning each mouthful was a unique combination of flavours. Now anyone who knows me knows I am no foodie but this was a rare moment when I was incredibly impressed by the cuisine available, a feeling that stuck with me throughout my time in India.
Despite England having a plethora of Indian restaurants and somewhat of a culture of enjoying a curry. The food was a stark contrast from anything I had previously tasted. I was later informed that ‘English’ Indian food is predominantly influenced by cuisine from the North of India, a long way from the backwaters of Kerala.
Heading back we were all offered the opportunity to drive the boat, much like punting along the canals of Cambridge or Venice, a lot harder than it looks. A really enjoyable day out allowed me to reset the energy levels before heading back to the town centre, the only shame that my schedule dictated I couldn’t spend any longer on the water.
Observing the culture
I took a long stroll back to get more of a vibe for the area, huge fields full of youngsters kicking a ball around and older men strolling around arms behind their back often wearing Dhoti’s tied up around their waste, so nice to see visions of India that I had in my mind coming to life before me. Just short of my hostel I stumbled across a performance of the ancient Katikali ritual.
The traditional Kerala dance was an interesting experience to say the least, second on the list of things to do in Kochi says more about the lack of entertainment available than anything else. Refreshed and ready for some more cricket on the TV, I braved a crazy tropical downpour to get back to the pub for another tasty curry. Washed down with some more 6%+ strong beers, a lovely way to bring my time in Kerala to a close.
The hour long trip to the airport in the morning was quoted at £11, not bad at all. When my driver, Charly, arrived he asked me to cancel the trip to cut out the Uber fee. With his broken English and the famous Indian head wobble I was really thrown, it took a few times to clarify that was actually what he wanted. Eventually we were on the same wavelength and off we went.
T.I.I
No seatbelts as standard but alas, this is India, the same phrase was uttered by the driver when there was another car driving the wrong way up a motorway slip road. Charly was an enthusiastic guy, irrationally happy to hear my name was Martin and equally as disappointed to hear I was an unmarried atheist. A rather intriguing insight into the traditions of this captivating country.
So what an introduction to India, a hundred “Hello Sir’s” greeted with a smile every time. I can’t wait to see what the ‘much busier’ Bengaluru has in store for me.
As always, I will rate Kerala Blasters as a footy trip out of 100 across 10 categories
Team Ability – Considered the 32nd best Division in Asia, the quality of football is certainly not the reason to travel this far for sure, although Kerala are riding high and pushing the Indian game to new levels, watch this space, but for now – 3/10
Atmosphere – The Manjappada are known for their deafening noise and bring the party from before the first minute to beyond the last, who am I to disagree with David James – 9/10
Stadium Quality – Improvements required in the storage department but plenty of character, feeling old school despite its relatively recent construction – 7/10
Beer/Food at stadium – I didn’t see any refreshments in my section but can’t say for sure if there wasn’t any in others – 2/10
Tourism – The Kerala backwaters and the beaches along the coastline are well worth visiting but they are some distance from the stadium. Within the city itself the options aren’t overwhelming – 4/10
Accessibility – If you’re prepared for a multi-stop adventure then there is always a way but in general, getting there is going to cost you a fair bit of money and great deal of time – 2/10
People – There were friendly vibes everywhere you went, never a hint of danger or jeopardy in the streets. Limited interaction due to the language barrier but a smile was always easy to draw from the locals – 7/10
Stadium Surroundings – The stadium itself was in a fairly built up, manic part of town which I didn’t have time to enjoy. A few nearby restaurants but with alcohol licences expensive there are few options for beer – 3/10
History – Only 10 years old and yet to win the league. Not a club many will have heard of but I’m certain their fans will change that over the coming years. – 1/10
Ease/Cost of ticket pricing – Although straightforward enough, I paid £35 for my ticket online with Paytm, however £30 of that was booking fee. If you can buy like a local then you are in business. – 5/10
Total – 43/100
Overall a pretty poor score, the in stadium atmosphere was the best aspect of this Footy Trip. Certainly not somewhere to come just for footy but if ever in India and in particular Kerala then a visit to see the Blasters is highly recommended. Especially as this is a growing league with a huge economy behind it. This country will no doubt continue to raise the current humiliating status of Indian football on the global stage. Certainly one to keep your eye on.
Accomplishments
For me in terms of personal accomplishments on this trip
India was the 58th country I have visited (58/195)
The 21st country in which I have watched football
An absolute pleasure as always to travel around the world enjoying the delights on offer, thanks again for joining me and until the next footy trip, take it easy